The 2008 excavation
Trench 4
For a second year, a team of enthusiastic volunteers returned to
Brora’s Back Beach in August. Work concentrated on a building
associated with the ‘New’ Salt Works, dating to c1767-1777,
which was partially exposed during the excavation of Trench 4 in
2007. An unexcavated corner of this building had collapsed over
the winter and the structure appeared to be in increasing danger
of eroding away completely. During the early summer, dry weather
had exacerbated the damage caused by the winter storms and hastened
the collapse of ‘the building with floor’ LINK TO PAGE
believed to be associated with the ‘Old’ Salt Works
(1598-1617), just to the east of the main excavation area.
In 2008, the continued excavation of Trench 4 revealed a substantial
building, neatly constructed from hard white quartzite boulders.
The building had been divided into two by a wall and the centrally
placed fireplace and hearth complex, discovered in 2008, lay on
either side of this wall. The eastern side of the wall had a neatly
built brick fireplace, contained within stone spur walls and with
a heat-damaged hearth. The area around the fireplace had been paved
with roughly shaped slabs, while the rest of the floor appeared
to have been cobbled. Middens were seen extending around the outer
walls at the eastern end of the building. These middens have been
visible in the face of the dune for many years, and are known locally
as the ‘coal road’. The material forming these midden
deposits had been laid down in horizontal bands, formed of layers
of burnt and unburnt shale/coal fragments. This suggests not so
much a ‘road’, but rather waste material being used
to create a firm working surface around the buildings.
The western half of the building was dominated by the hearth complex
backing onto the dividing wall. The excavation determined the sequence
of construction and use. A primary hearth was constructed within
stub walls, which mirrored the walls to the east. The first hearth
was largely obscured by a slightly smaller secondary hearth, which
had been built on top of it. The base of the secondary hearth was
much higher than the level of the floor. The hearth was made of
sandstone, turned dark red by heat. Finally, the spur walls were
extended - at a slight angle to the original walling - and a brick
and stone platform, pierced by two ‘flues’, supported
a raised hearth, enclosed by roughly-built brick and stone walling.
The base of the fire must have rested on the clay used to form the
top of the platform as this had been turned orange-red by heat,
remaining its original yellow grey colour around the edges. The
hearth complex was surrounded by slabs of enormous thickness. However,
these did not extend eastwards as far as the division wall, the
gaps on either side of the hearth being filled with a deep deposit
of (unburnt) coal. At the west end of the floor slabs, a number
of intercutting pits had been dug into clean windblown sand, while
a line of probable stakeholes suggested the presence of a wooden
partition. One side of a doorway, with a brick threshold, was discovered
in the south wall in the south west corner of the trench. This confirmed
that the stakeholes represented an internal partition and that the
building continued into the section, making its western half at
least 5m long.
There remain a number of unanswered questions, particularly around
the nature of the deposits at the west end of the building. Flake
hammer scale was identified between the slabs around the hearth
complex in the eastern half of the building. This was possibly derived
from repairs to the pans, which would have been undertaken frequently
due to the corrosion caused by the salt. However, given the number
of iron objects also recovered, it is possible that at least one
phase of the hearth complex in the western half of the building
functioned as a forge. This interpretation is reinforced by the
relatively small size of the building, which suggests it could not
have been large enough to contain even one pan. Though the size
of the pans at Brora is not known, elsewhere they are recorded as
measuring 18ft by 9ft by 18in (5.49m by 2.74m by 0.46m). A pan of
this size would have been a tight fit within a building only 3.7m
wide. In contrast, the pan houses at the St. Monans salt works,
where again the pan size is not known, varied between 8.5m-8.7m
and 9.2m-9.7m wide. Apart from the fireplace on the west side of
the division wall, which appears domestic due to its size, there
is nothing to indicate the function of this half of the building;
its ‘emptiness’ suggests it might have been used for
storage. The high quality of the ceramic finds - all of which appear
to support a late 18thC date - somewhat offsets the impression of
an industrial building.
Other Trenches
In addition to the main trench, a number of test pits were dug
to explore anomalies identified by the geophysics undertaken by
Orkney College Geophysics Unit in June 2008. These produced largely
negative results, apart from one dug upslope of the ‘Saltman’s
house’, identified on the basis of Farey’s 1813 map
and itself lying just inland of the main trench. This revealed a
roughly rectangular area of very neatly laid cobbling, on which
was found a sherd of late 18thC pottery. No structural evidence
was revealed, while below the cobbling - and separated from it by
a build-up of windblown sand - was a thick midden deposit, consisting
principally of shells. Unfortunately, the remains of a building
with associated floor deposits LINK TO BUILDING WITH FLOOR , which
might form part of the ‘Old’ Salt works, proved too
precarious to examine this year, though (perversely) as it continues
to collapse further, the floor deposits become more accessible.
The second season of excavation at Brora has confirmed the quality
of the remains on the Back Beach and their potential to reveal much
about the industrial history of this area. Time constraints, combined
with the complexity of the deposits, meant that the west end of
the building in Trench 4 was left unexcavated. The enthusiasm and
energy of the volunteers, mostly locals, numbering 35 in total and
ranging from 5 to 75 in age - has contributed a huge amount to the
project. The whole of Brora Primary school came to visit, touring
the archaeology and getting the opportunity to have a go themselves.
The pupils, as well as the visitors to the open day, were able to
see one of the project team, Ralph Shuttleworth, make salt using
seawater and Brora coal. It is hoped that excavation at both the
Old and New Salt works can continue next year.
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| Inspecting the recently
collapsed walling of the ‘Old’ Salt pans during
the introductory tour. |
Laying out the trench at
the beginning of the excavation. |
The east end of the building
beginning to emerge. |
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| Eddie with one of the earliest
- and most important finds - a silver coin which may date back
to William III. |
Working on Trench 5, with
the sea and the main trench behind. |
Serious discussion over
the complex structures in the centre of the building. |
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| The east end of the building:
the dark material around its outside is the ‘coal road’. |
The hearth complex in the
centre of the building, surrounded by a flagged floor. |
The hearth complex, after
excavation: the three phases are clearly visible. |
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| Walking along the beach
towards the excavation on the open day. |
Visitors gathered around
the trench during the tour. |
Ralph making salt |
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| Ralph explaining the salt
making process. |
The first salt crystals
starting to form. |
The first salt to be made
on the back Beach for 200 years! |
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