The Inverbrorary Coal & Salt works (1529-1777)

Introduction

Salt pans were established adjacent to the most northerly coal pits in Britain in 1598 by Lady Jean Gordon, Countess of Sutherland and her son John, the twelfth Earl of Sutherland. It was hoped that utilising the large amounts of poor-quality coal (‘small coals’ or ‘pan coal’) mined at Brora to evaporate salt water and turn it into salt would help make both ventures more profitable. Located on the Back Beach, close to the Winter Port, this early industrial phase was short-lived, though another attempt was made in 1614, when the pans were replaced. In 1767, the salt industry was resumed close to the earlier location. This third phase of activity finds its origins in the re-organisation of the Highland estates in the aftermath of Culloden in 1746, but came to an abrupt end in 1777. In the early 19th century, during the Clearances, the salt and coal industries at Brora were again revived by the Marquis of Stafford. New salt pans were established close to the harbour, while a coal mine was opened up further inland, on the north bank of the river (where the coal, though far deeper, was of higher grade). These operations were curtailed in 1825, following the abolition of the Salt Tax and the sudden availability of cheaper foreign salt. Though the coal mine was re-opened in 1872, continuing to operate until 1974 when it finally closed, no further attempts were made to resurrect the salt works.

First mention of coal at Brora

In 1529, a Sutherland Charter, quoted in the ‘Origines Parochiales Scotiae’, provides the first historical reference to the existence of coal near Brora. The Charter outlines the sale of half of the lands of Doll and Carrol to John Terrell by Alexander Gordon, Master of Sutherland and son of Adam Gordon and Elizabeth, Countess of Sutherland. It states that the coal to be found is reserved by the Earl of Sutherland as the feudal superior. “…to be held for services done and to be done, reserving to the earl and his heirs the salmon fishings of the water of Broray, the sea coal found and to be found, and the ‘blwidwitis’”. This Charter dated 1529 was deposited in the National Library of Scotland, along with other Sutherland Estate Papers.

Gordon family connection

Lady Jane Gordon, Countess of Sutherland and her son John, 12th Earl of Sutherland, initiated the early coal and salt industries at Brora in 1598. Brora became involved with the making of salt due to the geological fortitude of coal being found on the beach. At that time salt pans were erected, but the venture was short lived and closed a few years later. These salt pans, filled with sea water, were fired with the locally won coal to evaporate, leaving a residue of salt. The purpose of this process was probably for the curing of salmon, which had been recorded in Loch Brora by Franck in 1658 as being ‘very full of salmon’ and ‘which they barrel up for France’. The “Salmon Fishings of Browray” is mentioned in a charter granted by John, Earl of Sutherland, dated 6th August 1548. The salt would also have been used locally to preserve meat and in home consumption.

Lady Jane Gordon

Sir Robert Gordon

The only primary source of information compiled over thirty years after the salt and coal industries were initiated at Brora in 1598 is in the form of a family book written by Sir Robert Gordon of Gordonstoun, Baronet, called ‘A Genealogical History of The Earldom of Sutherland from its origins to the year 1630: With a continuation to the year 1651’. Sir Robert Gordon was learned, far-travelled and involved in the politics of his day. The following extracts provide the first written evidence of salt production on Brora Back Beach.

Sir Robert Gordon

Extract 1

'There is good sea coale som half myle be-west the mouth of the river of Broray, wherewith I have seen fine salt made, which served Southerland with the adjacent provinces, and wes somtymes also transported into England and other kingdoms. Ther is a fine and excellent quarrie of frie-stone a little by-west that cole-hugh, besyd Ald-Sputy, which is carried from thence into other pairts of the kingdome.'

This extract provides evidence that Sir Robert Gordon claims to have actually seen salt being made at Brora. The stone used in the construction of the eroded wall at the site of the old salt pans is thought to have come from the near-by Sputie Quarry. The quarry produced a stone, which was soft, friable and of sandy quality, used almost exclusively for small country cottages in the nineteenth century.

Extract 2

' ...This yeir of God, 1598, the cole-heugh was found besyd Broray, and some salt pans were erected a little by-west the entire of that river, by Jane (or Jean), Countess of Southerland, unto whom her sone Erle John had committed the government of his affairs during his absence in France. There was good salt maid then at Broray, which served not onlie Southerland, and the neighbouring provinces, but also was transported into Ingland and elsewher... The coal-heugh was first found by John the fifth of that name, Erle of Sutherland, bot he being taken away and prevented by sudden death, had no leisure nor time to interpryse that work.'

It is interesting to note that Sir Robert states that it was John 10th Earl of Sutherland (fifth of that name) who first discovered coal near the mouth of the river Brora. The information about this potentially earlier industrial activity is scant and it can only be assumed that the investigation carried out by earl John did not lead to any fruitful mining activity during his lifetime. Unfortunately the earl and his wife were both poisoned at Helmsdale Castle in July 1567 at the hands of Isabel Sinclair, in a most bloody episode in the history of the earldom.

Sir Robert Gordon or 'Gordonstoun', as he was known, boasted that Sutherland exports included corn, barley, salt, fossil coal, salmon, beef, hides, wool, linen, tallow, butter, cheese and plaids. He also indicates that iron of fine quality is smelted from veins. [to the top of the page]

A time of Progress

The Earldom of Sutherland played a crucial part in the early story of Brora’s salt and coal industries. In fact, without the early initiatives carried through by some members of the family, we would have no story to tell about these fascinating ventures dating back to the end of the sixteenth century. The early story focuses on the exploits of a few enterprising and ambitious individuals whose prestigious ‘clan family’, the Gordon’s of Huntly, were already undertaking major changes in the way Sutherland was governed, as far back as the early part of the sixteenth century. In fact, it would be true to say that Sir Robert Gordon, in particular, was responsible for changing the title of the land from the Barony of Sutherland to Sutherland-shire, the title it holds to this day.

Burgh of Inver-broray

These early enterprises were so successful that Brora was erected into a free burgh of barony and regality in 1601, with the usual liberties and the privilege of holding four fairs annually. The royal charter obtained in 1601 from King James VI confirmed many old grants and privileges including the regality of Sutherland given by David II in 1347, and an earlier grant dated 1583. It can be assumed that Inver-broray was considered the chief burgh in Sutherland at the beginning of the seventeenth century.

These privileges were an important part of the Earl’s plans to export coal and salt out of the local harbour. This sea-faring trade may have operated out of the mouth of the river Brora or more likely at a sheltered harbour near the salt pans called 'Port a' Gheamhraidh' (The Winter Port).

It has been generally accepted, up until now, that Brora lost its Burgh status soon after the demise of the early industries. It is known that in 1620 Dornoch became the main focus of Sir Robert Gordon's trading aspirations for the county and he even advises his deceased brother's son, the young earl, to promote Dornoch into a royal burgh with all haste. The village of Dornoch was created a royal burgh and the seat of justice in 1631.

This does not mean that Brora did not still continue with some of its burgh duties bestowed on it at an earlier date. In the same letter to his nephew, Sir Robert Gordon advises him to establish a summer market at Brora, in order to bring some much-needed money into the county through trading.

The author can find no evidence to suggest that Brora had lost its right to be called a burgh, and, as late as 1850, there is charter evident to suggest that Brora was still being referred to by this title. It is clear that more research is required to determine the legal requirements of burgh status today.

Seat of power

The seat of the Gordon earls of Sutherland was only five miles along the beach from Brora at Dunrobin Castle. It doesn't seem too impossible that they had acquired the necessary skills and experience in trade and industry to commence these Brora industries.

It is now much clearer to understand that by the end of the sixteenth century there already was a powerful and prestigious family controlling Sutherland affairs and easily capable of initiating industry in this parish. In fact, Earl John carried a sword into the opening of the Parliament on 13th December 1597 and Sir Robert Gordon was responsible for elevating the status of Sutherland into a shire.

It is known that, while Earl John was away in France, it was his mother who looked after the family affairs and oversaw the building of a number of salt pans and bell-pits on the beach. Jane Gordon died in 1629 at Dunrobin Castle and was buried at Dornoch Cathedral.

Dunrobin Castle 1812

1614 salt pans

As stated previously, these industries were short lived and the salt and coal works were opened anew in 1614. It appears that this second attempt at establishing these two industries was again unsuccessful and the iron of the salt pans was sold off by the estate in 1617, presumably to offset yearly debts. [to the top of the page]

Extract from the book 'Mary's Ladies'

'Fishing was an important part of the northern economy and a considerable element in the estate revenues. The salmon from Brora and Helmsdale were sold to merchants from Inverness, Elgin or Aberdeen, who sent their servants over to conduct the purchases. In 1616 the Edinburgh merchant, Alexander Watson, was in London with a hired ship selling Brora salt on behalf of her son, the 12th Earl, but 2 years later a reference to £666-13s 4d got from the sale of the iron of the saltpannis of Broray suggests either that the scale of operations had been reduced or had come to an end altogether.'

End of Brora’s early salt production

The reasons why the salt and coal industries did not succeed at the beginning of the seventeenth century is hard to define and an ultimate answer may never be found. It is clear that some events may have contributed to the demise of the industries, including the constant feuding with the earl of Caithness, which escalated after the earl had returned to Sutherland from France in 1600. This constant battling with the adjacent county must have caused much strife in the Sutherland household and may have made it more difficult to maintain a regular workforce at the salt pans that did not fear attack from the North. It has also been recorded that a catastrophic storm struck the coastline of mainland Britain around this time and anything in its way would have been completely destroyed. Another major blow would have been the death of the earl in 1615, when the running of the estate fell into the hands to his brother Sir Robert Gordon. It is hoped that future research will provide a clearer picture about how these early industries came to an end.

Eighteenth century salt production

For a detailed account of the eighteenth century salt works, recently completed by Jacqueline Aitken and Nick Lindsay of Clyne Heritage Society, please see the 2007 excavation report

Nineteenth century salt production

The last attempt to make salt (nearer the harbour) was undertaken by the Marquis of Sutherland in 1812. He invested £16,000 in the 4 pans and the construction of a miniature railway from the coal mine to the harbour and to the salt-pans. The new salt pans produced a total of 20,000 tons of salt, which averages out at a staggering 30 tons of salt derived from evaporated sea water per week. It follows that the quantities of sea water required to be driven off as steam to consistently produce this amount of salt are barely imaginable, being in the order of 40,000 litres (8,500 galls) for every ton of salt. With the abolition of the tax on imported salt after the long war with France in 1823, the demand for local salt ceased, and, the salt pans were closed down in 1828, never to reopen.

The historian can gleam much more information about this period of salt making activity from the Sutherland Estate Papers deposited in the National Library of Scotland. The type of information includes employee wages, inventories of equipment and even the names and job titles of the workers themselves.

Dep 313-996 – Inventory of Saltern May 1822

Inventory & Valuation of Articles belonging to the Brora Saltworks 15 May 1822 in Word format

Map Evidence

Maps have become more widely available to local researchers now that many collections appear on the internet, e.g. SCRAN (including Roy's Military Survey) and the National Library of Scotland’s (NLS) website. These sources of map information, as well as other maps and estate plans, have been used to assist research into the history of the salt and coal industries at Brora. This research was undertaken to determine the location of three different salt pans, i.e. 1598, 1614 & 1768, and also to establish if any buildings are depicted by size and shape, as well as place-name evidence.

A list of all the maps that had a name or showed a structure relating to the early salt and coal works were consulted and a table of the results were compiled.

Maps arranged chronologically

Note: Salt pans not depicted on OS 1st and 2nd Edition Maps. [to the top of the page]

The earliest evidence is from a map by 'Moll' dated 1745 of Sutherland and Caithness, which states, 'here are Mines of excellent Coal and Salt Pans'. This statement probably referred to previous mining activities that had taken place during the first half of the eighteenth century. It is possible that salt was produced during this period as suggested by Moll’s map. The next period of mining activity was initiated by William, Earl of Sutherland, in 1747 when he returned to Sutherland.

Two maps depict buildings at the site of the old salt pans on the Brora Back Beach foreshore. The map by Taylor and Skinner dated 1776 (Scotland’s First Road Atlas) states the name 'Salt Pans', but it also depicts three buildings (different sized rectangles) at the same location. It is possible that the large building on this map may be connected with the substantial wall remains located on the beach. Clyne Heritage Society’s 2004 survey showed this wall to be at least 30m long and it is hoped that the full extent of the structure will be determined by future survey work. It is possible that this building is a large pan house consisting of more than one fireplace, which is in contrast to the smaller individual pan houses excavated at St. Monans, Fife, in 1995-6. The other two buildings on the map may be the salt man’s house, as depicted on the estate plan by John Farey, and a salt store.

The other map that depicts buildings at the salt pans site is an estate plan dated around 1770. This is an unusual find and it is presumed that it was completed by the tutors of Elizabeth, Countess of Sutherland, who was only an infant at the time and residing in France. This plan clearly shows a large rectangular building running parallel to the coastline and three other associated buildings behind on the grassy links. The large building is called the ‘Salt Pans’ and a small dark circle is depicted just to the east of this building, which may be a water reservoir.

The estate plan by John Farey in 1812 does not depict buildings at the site of the old salt pans. This is unusual as the map is otherwise very detailed and other buildings are clearly depicted as roofed and unroofed. It is unclear what has happened to the salt pan buildings between 1770 and 1812 and why Farey is unable to depict any structures on the coast. It is possible that the buildings were demolished or taken down and the material reused, or the site had become quickly engulfed by sand covering the buildings. This would explain the presence of a network of sand dunes at the site today. It has been suggested by the author that the salt pan buildings were once inside a sand dune and the gradual effects of coastal erosion has helped to reveal the walls that are visible today. It is clear that the walls have been uncovered for some time but there is no strong oral tradition associated with the site in the village of Brora and it is only presumed that they belong to the salt pans.

It is possible that a major storm event took place in the past; covering the site and Farey only reported the fragments of the site that had been revealed by 1812. Evidence for this comes from his report when he states 'The Air Pit belonging to the works, about 70 yards SW of the Coal Pit, has been covered and hid by the beach and sand thrown over it, by the high tides of late years; which, as well as the Old Salt-House, whose fire-places are now washed and covered by the waves of every Spring tide.... Farey’s very detailed map also depicts coal pit and limekilns of the Inverbrora Coal Works.

The four pan houses erected in 1812 nearer Brora harbour are depicted on three different maps and it seems clear that the buildings were connected to each other, maybe in the form of a long building separated by internal walls or adjacent buildings. The plan of Brora Town and Harbour dated 1810 gives an insight to the type of building proposed for the salt pan complex that was to be built a couple of years later in 1812. It is not known if this exact building plan was adhered to or whether there were alterations to the original design. It is interesting to note a particular depiction on the Plan of Allotments in the Parish of Clyne dated 1821, which shows another large building at the salt pans site and it is possible that more salt pans were built between 1812 and 1821.

(An updated history of these industries with lots of new information is currently being written by Jacquie Aitken, Brora excavation project researcher.) [to the top of the page]